Birdingonthe.Net Recent Postings from Digi-Scoping > Home > Mail > Alerts Updated on Friday, November 6 at 07:19 PM ET The most recently received Mail is at the top.	Lincolns Sparrow

7 Nov Panasonic 20/1.7 mm Pancake lens [neilfif11 ] 06 Nov Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 on Nikon EDG zoom [Steve Sosensky ] 06 Nov Re: Zeikos gadget [Steve Sosensky ] 6 Nov Re: Zeikos gadget [Don Morgan ] 6 Nov Re: Zeikos gadget [Len Blumin ] 6 Nov Zeikos gadget [] 6 Nov Re: Also new to digiscoping [Jerry Jourdan ] 06 Nov Also new to digiscoping ["Jim" ] 06 Nov Re: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope ["wturber" ] 06 Nov Re: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope ["Gene" ] 05 Nov Re: New to digiscoping which route to take... ["gennaro209" ] 05 Nov Re: New to digiscoping which route to take... [Alec Earnshaw ] 05 Nov New to digiscoping which route to take... ["gennaro209" ] 5 Nov Canon G10 vs Canon S90 [] 5 Nov G1 on the Nikon 30xDS ["Tom Cuffe" ] 5 Nov RE: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work ["Jack O'Neill" ] 5 Nov RE: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work [neilfif11 ] 5 Nov RE: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work ["Jack O'Neill" ] 5 Nov Using the DCA zoom with the new Swarovski Zoom 25x50 (end :-) [Hervé MICHEL ] 5 Nov Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work [neilfif11 ] 5 Nov Panasonic 20/1.7 P on the G1 [neilfif11 ] 4 Nov Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope ["William K. Groll" ] 05 Nov Buying Step Rings ["Gene" ] 5 Nov Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope [Neil ] 4 Nov Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope ["Tom France" ] 5 Nov Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope [neilfif11 ] 4 Nov Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope [Ed Stonick ] 5 Nov Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope [neilfif11 ] 4 Nov Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope [Ed Stonick ] 04 Nov Re: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope ["wturber" ] 04 Nov Spotting scope vs refractor telescope ["scoping10" ] 4 Nov Zeiss Digiscooped Pic of the Week [Stephen Ingraham ] 3 Nov Re: Nikon Coolpix 995 [Jeff Bouton ] 2 Nov Re: Nikon Coolpix 995 [Len Blumin ] 02 Nov Nikon Coolpix 995 ["gator1606" ] 31 Oct Re: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week [Stephen Ingraham ] 31 Oct Re: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week [Don Morgan ] 31 Oct Canon SD780IS ? [Stephen Ingraham ] 31 Oct Re: Aperture / EV compensation question [Subscriptions ] 30 Oct Re: Aperture / EV compensation question ["h2otara" ] 31 Oct Re: Aperture / EV compensation question [neilfif11 ] 30 Oct Re: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week [Gerry ] 30 Oct Re: Aperture / EV compensation question [Roger Isaacs ] 30 Oct Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week [Stephen Ingraham ] 30 Oct Aperture / EV compensation question ["h2otara" ] 30 Oct Zeiss Digiscooped Pic of the Week [Stephen Ingraham ] 30 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 ["Anand Arya - GMail" ] 30 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 ["Anand Arya - GMail" ] 27 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 [neilfif11 ] 27 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 [Anand Arya ] 27 Oct Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - photo [neilfif11 ] 27 Oct Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - photo [Jerry Jourdan ] 27 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news [neilfif11 ] 26 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news [David Free ] 26 Oct Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 [Anand Arya ] 26 Oct Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - photo [neilfif11 ] 26 Oct Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news [neilfif11 ] 26 Oct Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news ["hasherd" ] 26 Oct Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news [neilfif11 ] 26 Oct Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens [neilfif11 ] 26 Oct Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 [neilfif11 ] 24 Oct Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes ["Gene" ] 24 Oct Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes ["Gene" ] 24 Oct Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes ["skyman845" ] 23 Oct Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes ["Gene" ] 23 Oct Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes ["skyman845" ] 23 Oct Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 ["wturber" ] 22 Oct Re: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 [Roger Isaacs ] 23 Oct Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 ["mntncougar" ] 23 Oct Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 ["wturber" ] 22 Oct Re: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 [Roger Isaacs ] 22 Oct Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 ["wturber" ] 22 Oct Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 ["wturber" ] 22 Oct Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 [Dale Forbes ] 21 Oct Example with setting: EX. OPT. Zoom ["A.J. Morales" ] 22 Oct Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 on Nikon EDG zoom ["bill.schmoker" ] Subject: Panasonic 20/1.7 mm Pancake lens From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 09:18:31 +0800 The adding a 46/43 step down converter to the Olympus 20/1.7 lens to match with DCA adapter ( the Ricoh GX100 is 43 too ) I thought the vignetting might get a little worse. The vignetting top right corner is at 25x on the 25-50x and it disappears at 30x so is not enough to worry about. This lens though doesn't Neil Panasonic Lumis GF1 plus Panasonic 20/1.7 mm lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw 25-50 zoom and DCA adapter (43 mm ) Hong Kong, China. November 2009 Subject: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 on Nikon EDG zoom From: Steve Sosensky <steve AT optics4birding.com> Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:05:45 -0800 Hi Bill, How are you connecting the G1 to the EDG? At 06:38 AM 10/21/2009, bill.schmoker wrote: >To follow up on this thread, I got the 20mm f/1.7 for the G1 >yesterday. On my 65mm Nikon EDG zoom eyepiece I also have >vignetting on the low end which goes away about halfway through the >zoom range. The entire top half or so of the eyepiece zoom gives no >vignetting. Good Viewing, Steve Sosensky Vice President www.Optics4Birding.com 19 Hammond Suite 506 N 33.65926 Irvine CA 92618 W 117.70305 877.OP4.BIRD (877.674.2473) Toll Free 818.522.5261 Cell 949.360.OPTX (949.360.6789) Local Subject: Re: Zeikos gadget From: Steve Sosensky <steve AT optics4birding.com> Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 15:01:44 -0800 Alan, This looks like it would be great for adapting P&S cameras that don't have filter attachments to Kowa (via TSN-DA1 or TSN-DA10), Swarovski (via DCA), and Vortex Razor (via their adapter) scopes using a 37mm adapter ring. There appears to be enough adjustability to be able to work with cameras whose tripod mount is not directly below the lens. The other interesting thing is that the SKU is the same as the mfgr's part number with a "CZ" prepended. This looks suspiciously like Carl Zeiss to me, and the "Z" in the logo looks like the same font that Zeiss uses. How about it Stephen, is this a Zeiss brand? At 12:56 PM 11/6/2009, SiriusGuy AT aol.com wrote: >The Adorama E-mail circular for today contains a gadget I haven't >previously seen, from Zeikos, for $19.95, including shipping, which >looks like it might have some application to digiscoping, >particularly if the tripod screw mount is in line with the lens axis: > >http://www.adorama.com/CZZEPSAD.html?emailprice=t&utm_source=ET&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=EmailWS110609 > >Has anyone seen one? Or used one? Or, failing that, comment on >whether it could be used to adapt a P&S to be used for digiscoping? Good Viewing, Steve Sosensky Vice President www.Optics4Birding.com 19 Hammond Suite 506 N 33.65926 Irvine CA 92618 W 117.70305 877.OP4.BIRD (877.674.2473) Toll Free 818.522.5261 Cell 949.360.OPTX (949.360.6789) Local Subject: Re: Zeikos gadget From: Don Morgan <mntncougar AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:45:25 -0500 Actually, the device is $19.95, not $199.95, which makes it a bit more appealing and intriguing. Don Morgan Coventry, Ct On Fri, Nov 6, 2009 at 3:56 PM, wrote: > > > The Adorama E-mail circular for today contains a gadget I haven't > previously seen, from Zeikos, for $199.95, including shipping, which looks > like it might have some application to digiscoping, particularly if the > tripod screw mount is in line with the lens axis: > > > http://www.adorama.com/CZZEPSAD.html?emailprice=t&utm_source=ET&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=EmailWS110609 > > > Has anyone seen one? Or used one? Or, failing that, comment on whether it > could be used to adapt a P&S to be used for digiscoping? > > Alan Birnbaum > Fresno CA > > > Subject: Re: Zeikos gadget From: Len Blumin <Len.blumin AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:02:35 -0800 Alan- You made a x10 typo. It's 19.95. :) Len On Fri, Nov 6, 2009 at 12:56 PM, wrote: > > > The Adorama E-mail circular for today contains a gadget I haven't > previously seen, from Zeikos, for $199.95, including shipping, which looks > like it might have some application to digiscoping, particularly if the > tripod screw mount is in line with the lens axis: > > > http://www.adorama.com/CZZEPSAD.html?emailprice=t&utm_source=ET&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=EmailWS110609 > > Has anyone seen one? Or used one? Or, failing that, comment on whether it > could be used to adapt a P&S to be used for digiscoping? > > Alan Birnbaum > Fresno CA > > > -- Cheers, Len Blumin, Mill Valley, California len.blumin AT gmail.com Swaro 80 HD, 30X, DCA, CoolPix 8400 http://www.flickriver.com/photos/lenblumin/sets/72157614994688364/ Subject: Zeikos gadget From: SiriusGuy AT aol.com Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 15:56:34 EST The Adorama E-mail circular for today contains a gadget I haven't previously seen, from Zeikos, for $199.95, including shipping, which looks like it might have some application to digiscoping, particularly if the tripod screw mount is in line with the lens axis: _http://www.adorama.com/CZZEPSAD.html?emailprice=t&utm_source=ET&utm_medium= Email&utm_campaign=EmailWS110609_ (http://www.adorama.com/CZZEPSAD.html?emailprice=t&utm_source=ET&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=EmailWS110609) Has anyone seen one? Or used one? Or, failing that, comment on whether it could be used to adapt a P&S to be used for digiscoping? Alan Birnbaum Fresno CA Subject: Re: Also new to digiscoping From: Jerry Jourdan <jourdaj AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2009 11:41:39 -0500 Jim, Simple tube adapters can be made using PVC pipe from hardware stores. The trick is attaching the camera to the tube. Here are my two most recent adapters. One using a pesto jar lid and nylon hose clamps superglued together. The other uses a Canon lens adapter and teflon tape cap. I refuse to purchase commercial adapters when lightweight, portable ones can be made w/ household items. These may or may not inspire you.... http://jerryjourdan2.blogspot.com/2007/04/homemade-adaptor-for-fuji-f30-and-zeiss.html http://jerryjourdan2.blogspot.com/2008/04/new-digiscoping-adaptor-for-coolpix.html Best of luck, and happy shooting, Jerry http://jerryjourdan.blogspot.com On Fri, Nov 6, 2009 at 10:06 AM, Jim wrote: > > > Have a vortex .. stokes sandpiper 65mm scope .. angled eyepiece and would > like to connect it to a camera. I have point and shoot cameras as well as > DSLRs (all canon). Vortex sells an adapter but it looks to be large and > heavy. > > Is there a simple, fast and easy way to connect a camera to this scope? > > Tripod is rock solid. > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > Subject: Also new to digiscoping From: "Jim" <jwwtex AT yahoo.com> Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 15:06:49 -0000 Have a vortex .. stokes sandpiper 65mm scope .. angled eyepiece and would like to connect it to a camera. I have point and shoot cameras as well as DSLRs (all canon). Vortex sells an adapter but it looks to be large and heavy. Is there a simple, fast and easy way to connect a camera to this scope? Tripod is rock solid. Thanks, Jim Subject: Re: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope From: "wturber" <jay AT studio522.com> Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:49:21 -0000 I'm sure the Orion is a very good optic for many of the reasons you cited. But the OTA alone weighs almost two pounds more than a Swarovski ATS80HD. The Orion is also much longer for two reasons. The first is that is has a longer focal length objective. This is good optically and for economy since it is easier to correct a longer focal length objective than the shorter one found, for instance, in the Swarovski. The other reason the Orion is longer is that it has no folded optical path. The erecting prisms in a scope like the Swarovski folds the optical path and makes the scope more compact. BTW, light absorption isn't much of an issue with modern optics intended for terrestrial use given modern lens coating technology. But it is true that each additional optical surface introduces an additional place for for image degradation. This increases the cost of modern compact spotting scopes. Anyway, it all leads to my original point. Pick the scope that best fits the compromises you can live with. Each approach has a good reason for its existence in the market. And each approach can be optically quite good. Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Subject: Re: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope From: "Gene" <smithhill1 AT embarqmail.com> Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:06:49 -0000 Well said Jay, as always. I am very happy with my 80mm ED Orion OTA. The advantages I claim are a sturdy two inch focuser, a PURE optical system without additional lenses and prisms used to create zoom, which will adsorb light and degrade quality, at least to some degree. A major advantage of the OTA is also the use of a vast assortment of astro eyepieces. The Baadar Hyperion eyepieces give a 68 degree field of view, a 33mm dia. eye-lens, and 20mm of eye relief. The two different size threads on top of the piece allow secure and accurate attachment of a camera with a threaded adapter tube for digiscoping. Single focal length eyepieces seem to always be better for digiscoping, no matter what brand. The 5mm Hyperion, as well as the longer focal lengths, works well with my LX3 for digiscoping. With that set up it is not hard to get over 200X magnification. I suggest using a good quality Point and Shoot camera that has an adapter tube for secure attachment to the eyepiece. The Hyperions can be mounted in a 2 inch or 11/4 inch focuser. --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "scoping10" wrote: > > Hi, > I now use a William Optics 80MM refractor telescope at prime focus with a Nikon D50 DSLR. What I would like to know is which is better for nature photography. The last time I figured the power with the 80MM was around 14X. The optics are great. Thinking about getting a spotting scope if the quality improvement increase would justify the cost. > > Thanks > Barre > Subject: Re: New to digiscoping which route to take... From: "gennaro209" <gennaro209 AT aol.com> Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 23:16:01 -0000 Thanks Alec It does help some what, but I will have to research this more. Subject: Re: New to digiscoping which route to take... From: Alec Earnshaw <aearnshaw AT sinectis.com.ar> Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 18:33:00 -0200 Genaro, To go to your specific question, have you seen the Vixen webpage? http://www.vixensportsoptics.com/spotting.html Click on "Field Scope Photography" to see a chart that shows the various supported configurations. I can say a few words about the Vixen, but not about the D90 (I've never owned a digital reflex). I currently use the Geoma II ED 67 mm angled with a P6000. I use a Wide x20 eypeice (GLH20 WIDE, apparently discontinued) but failed to have he one I really wanted to an error in the shipping, which is GLH20D, designed for digiscoping and all I could find out is that this eyepiece retains better focus to the edge of the field of view (but since I was sent the wrong one I was subsequently told it was not noticeable!). The adaptor tube is home-made: a PVC tube to which I epoxied a filter ring with the proper thread pf the P6000. At the eypeice end it simply fits quite snuggly with the camera lens right up close to the eyepiece. The Vixen seems, to me, a fairly good scope for viewing. Also, I can take a better shot through this digiscoping setup that I can through my "normal" camera, which is a Panasocnic Lumix FZ30 with teleconverter - provided, of course, that the target is very very patient with me! However, I suspect that the weakest link today with my equipment is the scope. One thing is to get a full-screen shot (which is fairly good), and another is if you want to crop it down: if you do this it's not going to have a very sharp focus. The image you have is the full frame, pretty much. (I wonder how many others are bound in this way too...?). I can send you a few samples of what I've achieved with this. Hope this helps! Alec > I am new to digiscoping and need some help. I was looking to purchase > a vixen geoma pro 67. I wanted to know if someone could help me with > some information. I have a Nikon D90. I wanted to use a 50mm lens with > a Digital Camera Adapter (like the Swarovski set up, I recently read a > blog that someone used a Swarovski DCA, and a 50mm lens with a Leica > scope), or an Universal Camera Adapter. I am wondering if this is even > possible with a vixen scope. I can't get any info from the retailers. > Does any one have suggestions of a better set up like instead of using > my Nikon D90, maybe a point and shoot. I really appreciate any help. > Subject: New to digiscoping which route to take... From: "gennaro209" <gennaro209 AT aol.com> Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 20:03:01 -0000 I am new to digiscoping and need some help. I was looking to purchase a vixen geoma pro 67. I wanted to know if someone could help me with some information. I have a Nikon D90. I wanted to use a 50mm lens with a Digital Camera Adapter (like the Swarovski set up, I recently read a blog that someone used a Swarovski DCA, and a 50mm lens with a Leica scope), or an Universal Camera Adapter. I am wondering if this is even possible with a vixen scope. I can't get any info from the retailers. Does any one have suggestions of a better set up like instead of using my Nikon D90, maybe a point and shoot. I really appreciate any help. Subject: Canon G10 vs Canon S90 From: SiriusGuy AT aol.com Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:57:29 EST <> I have also found my G10 to be a fine camera for general use, especially for personal travel, though at times it gets a bit bulky for urban travel. I have just received my S90, similar but improved sensor and software, supposedly better low-light performance, different lens, shorter zoom ratio of 3.8, same fine rear LCD. I will try to do a few shorts in conjunction with my ATS65HD with 30X WA and advise how these two work together. Certainly I'd rather carry the S90 around on a day when I'm also lugging the ATS65HD with scope, plus binoculars. The older I get, the more I wish everything was filled with helium.... Alan Birnbaum Fresno CA Subject: G1 on the Nikon 30xDS From: "Tom Cuffe" <tblcuffe AT iol.ie> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 15:21:39 -0000 Hi digiscopers Anyone out there tried the G1 with the kit lens on the Nikon 30x DS eyepiece+Nikon 82ED angled. Her good self is looking for me to pick out my Christmas present and the G1 might be a likely candidate. ATB Tom ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1501 - Release Date: 13/06/2008 06:33 Subject: RE: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work From: "Jack O'Neill" <jack.oneill1 AT btinternet.com> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 10:54:05 -0000 What I omitted to add was that it was a cracking photo _____ From: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com [mailto:digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of neilfif11 Sent: 05 November 2009 10:47 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [digiscopingbirds] Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work Jack, Thanks for that. I don't get to see too many Greens. Neil. That's a Green Sandpiper, Neil _____ From: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com [mailto:digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of neilfif11 Sent: 05 November 2009 09:40 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Subject: [digiscopingbirds] Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work I gave the kit zoom (14-45 mm ) a run on the GF1 yesterday with the 25-50 zoom not expecting too much but I wanted to use the AF as the Wood Sandpiper was dashing around like a crazy thing. When I saw the result on the computer I almost trashed it but I thought it might be worth a second look. I was happy with the record image. Neil Panasonic GF1 and Panasonic 14-45 mm kit zoom lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw25-50 zoom and DCA adapter Hong Kong, China. November 2009 Subject: RE: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 18:47:14 +0800 Jack, Thanks for that. I don't get to see too many Greens. Neil. >That's a Green Sandpiper, Neil > > >From: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com >[mailto:digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of neilfif11 >Sent: 05 November 2009 09:40 >To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com >Subject: [digiscopingbirds] Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work > > >I gave the kit zoom (14-45 mm ) a run on the GF1 yesterday with the >25-50 zoom not expecting too much but I wanted to use the AF as the >Wood Sandpiper was dashing around like a crazy thing. >When I saw the result on the computer I almost trashed it but I >thought it might be worth a second look. >I was happy with the record image. >Neil > >Panasonic GF1 and Panasonic 14-45 mm kit zoom lens on Swarovski >STS80HD scope and Sw25-50 zoom and DCA adapter > >Hong Kong, >China. >November 2009 > > > Subject: RE: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work From: "Jack O'Neill" <jack.oneill1 AT btinternet.com> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 10:35:00 -0000 That's a Green Sandpiper, Neil _____ From: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com [mailto:digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of neilfif11 Sent: 05 November 2009 09:40 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Subject: [digiscopingbirds] Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work I gave the kit zoom (14-45 mm ) a run on the GF1 yesterday with the 25-50 zoom not expecting too much but I wanted to use the AF as the Wood Sandpiper was dashing around like a crazy thing. When I saw the result on the computer I almost trashed it but I thought it might be worth a second look. I was happy with the record image. Neil Panasonic GF1 and Panasonic 14-45 mm kit zoom lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw25-50 zoom and DCA adapter Hong Kong, China. November 2009 Subject: Using the DCA zoom with the new Swarovski Zoom 25x50 (end :-) From: Hervé MICHEL <michelhp AT orange.fr> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 11:39:07 +0100 Hi, in order to have no vigneting with the new zoom Swarovski 25x50 SW and the adapter DCA zoom, especially with the panasonic 14-45 mm and the G1/GH1/GF1, you have to do that : These are the parts of the DCA which fit on the 25x50. Hervé MICHEL FRANCE Subject: Cropping with the GF1 on a zoom can work From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:40:05 +0800 I gave the kit zoom (14-45 mm ) a run on the GF1 yesterday with the 25-50 zoom not expecting too much but I wanted to use the AF as the Wood Sandpiper was dashing around like a crazy thing. When I saw the result on the computer I almost trashed it but I thought it might be worth a second look. I was happy with the record image. Neil Panasonic GF1 and Panasonic 14-45 mm kit zoom lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw25-50 zoom and DCA adapter Hong Kong, China. November 2009 Subject: Panasonic 20/1.7 P on the G1 From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 11:44:23 +0800 I finally got out in the field with the G1 and the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens. I set it up using the DCA adapter ( 43 mm thread with 43/46 adapter to lens ) onto the 25-50x zoom eyepiece. Auto Focus works well enough, despite the heavier body on the G1 but you have to be careful not to put any extra pressure/weight on the camera from your hand or forehead when using the EVF. I think using a remote might be a safer way to go. I was using the zoom at 40/50x zoom to minimise/eliminate vignetting. The bird of the day was this Pacific Golden Plover. I tried manually focusing on it with the Olympus 50/2 Macro lens but didn't get a sharp shot as the bird was feeding continuously. Neil Panasonic Lumix G1 plus Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw 25-50x zoom eyepiece and DCA adapter. Hong Kong, China. November 2009 http://www.flickr.com/photos/7892550 AT N03/ Subject: Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: "William K. Groll" <wkg AT austin78704.com> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:17:28 -0700 Tom, As Neil has explained to us in the past, cameras that are highly rated for general photography are not necessarily good for digiscoping. Matching the optics of the scope with the camera is tricky. We have to accept some compromises on features in order to find compatible optics. The way to figure out which cameras work better with spotting scopes is either to try each one yourself, or do what you are doing now and ask lots of questions on the list or visit a site such as Bird Forum: http://www.birdforum.net/forumdisplay.php?f=243 Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Neil To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 5:58 PM Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope Tom, The G10 is a great camera but the lens needs a lot of eye relief from the eyepeice (at least 25 mm of ER ). Canon G lenses have always been "tricky". Neil Ps I have one and love it although the GF1 will get more use now Sent from my iPhone On 5 Nov 2009, at 8:17 AM, "Tom France" wrote: Neil Is there a reason that you aren't recommending the Canon G10 to people for digiscoping? It was selected over the Nikon P6000 in the review: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/pocket-battleships.shtml as having some superior features to the P6000 and it also has a wired remote control, which is handy for digiscoping. Tom Subject: Buying Step Rings From: "Gene" <smithhill1 AT embarqmail.com> Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 01:20:41 -0000 Ed: There is ONLY one place to buy step up step down rings if you do not want to pay through the nose. That is Photofilter.com A fraction of the cost at many other places. Great service. Understand their explanation of the difference between step up and step down. Gene Subject: Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: Neil <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 08:58:58 +0800 Tom, The G10 is a great camera but the lens needs a lot of eye relief from the eyepeice (at least 25 mm of ER ). Canon G lenses have always been "tricky". Neil Ps I have one and love it although the GF1 will get more use now Sent from my iPhone On 5 Nov 2009, at 8:17 AM, "Tom France" wrote: > > > Neil > > Is there a reason that you aren't recommending the Canon G10 to > people for digiscoping? It was selected over the Nikon P6000 in the > review: > http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/pocket-battleships.shtml > as having some superior features to the P6000 and it also has a > wired remote control, which is handy for digiscoping. > > Tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: neilfif11 > To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 4:15 PM > Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope > > > Ed, > You can take the images in Jpeg and/or Raw. The RAW doesn't > do any in-camera adjustments to the image so you can make all your > adjustments with software later. Good if you have difficult > exposure situations. > The 52 mm adapters are sold under many different brands but they > probably all come out of one factory in China. Raynox are a reliable > brand > http://www.bugeyedigital.com/product_main/bow-a4652n6.html > > The remote is wireless ( same as Nikon 8400 and D90 ) > http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/207373-USA/Nikon_4730_ML_L3_Remote_Control_Transmitter.html > > Only problem with it is that the signal has to be from side/front. > > Neil. > > > >> Hi Neil! > >> > >> Thanks for your quick response! I'm still learning, but what is >> the "RAW?" How do you use the remote? Can you recommend a vendor/ >> brand for the 52mm adapter? Thanks again! > >> > >> --Ed >> -----Original Message----- >> From: neilfif11 >> Sent: Nov 4, 2009 5:23 PM >> To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope >> >> >> Ed, >> Your best bet is still the Nikon P6000 with a third party 52 >> mm adapter. You get ED glass, much better screen, RAW and IR Remote >> ( optional). >> Neil. >> >> >Greetings! >> > >> >I'm new to the group but have been happily digiscoping with my 65mm >> >Swarovski scope and a Canon A570 (after I got over the shock of >> >purchasing the Swarovski attachment rings, which cost more than the >> >camera!). >> > >> >Most recently I was able to get some nice shots of the Bar-tailed >> >Godwit that showed up at Newport Back Bay. >> > >> >Anyway, I was wondering if any of the newer Canons or other digital >> >cameras can attach to the Swarovski. I purchased the Canon adapter >> >for the A570. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. >> > >> >Regards, >> >Ed >> > >> >Ed Stonick >> >Pasadena, CA >> > >> >edstonick AT earthlink.net >> > > >> >> > > > Subject: Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: "Tom France" <taf1940 AT comcast.net> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 17:17:33 -0700 Neil Is there a reason that you aren't recommending the Canon G10 to people for digiscoping? It was selected over the Nikon P6000 in the review: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/pocket-battleships.shtml as having some superior features to the P6000 and it also has a wired remote control, which is handy for digiscoping. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: neilfif11 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 4:15 PM Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope Ed, You can take the images in Jpeg and/or Raw. The RAW doesn't do any in-camera adjustments to the image so you can make all your adjustments with software later. Good if you have difficult exposure situations. The 52 mm adapters are sold under many different brands but they probably all come out of one factory in China. Raynox are a reliable brand http://www.bugeyedigital.com/product_main/bow-a4652n6.html The remote is wireless ( same as Nikon 8400 and D90 ) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/207373-USA/Nikon_4730_ML_L3_Remote_Control_Transmitter.html Only problem with it is that the signal has to be from side/front. Neil. Hi Neil! Thanks for your quick response! I'm still learning, but what is the "RAW?" How do you use the remote? Can you recommend a vendor/brand for the 52mm adapter? Thanks again! --Ed -----Original Message----- From: neilfif11 Sent: Nov 4, 2009 5:23 PM To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope Ed, Your best bet is still the Nikon P6000 with a third party 52 mm adapter. You get ED glass, much better screen, RAW and IR Remote ( optional). Neil. >Greetings! > >I'm new to the group but have been happily digiscoping with my 65mm >Swarovski scope and a Canon A570 (after I got over the shock of >purchasing the Swarovski attachment rings, which cost more than the >camera!). > >Most recently I was able to get some nice shots of the Bar-tailed >Godwit that showed up at Newport Back Bay. > >Anyway, I was wondering if any of the newer Canons or other digital >cameras can attach to the Swarovski. I purchased the Canon adapter >for the A570. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. > >Regards, >Ed > >Ed Stonick >Pasadena, CA > >edstonick AT earthlink.net > Subject: Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 07:15:18 +0800 Ed, You can take the images in Jpeg and/or Raw. The RAW doesn't do any in-camera adjustments to the image so you can make all your adjustments with software later. Good if you have difficult exposure situations. The 52 mm adapters are sold under many different brands but they probably all come out of one factory in China. Raynox are a reliable brand http://www.bugeyedigital.com/product_main/bow-a4652n6.html The remote is wireless ( same as Nikon 8400 and D90 ) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/207373-USA/Nikon_4730_ML_L3_Remote_Control_Transmitter.html Only problem with it is that the signal has to be from side/front. Neil. >Hi Neil! > >Thanks for your quick response! I'm still learning, but what is the >"RAW?" How do you use the remote? Can you recommend a vendor/brand >for the 52mm adapter? Thanks again! > >--Ed > >-----Original Message----- >From: neilfif11 >Sent: Nov 4, 2009 5:23 PM >To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com >Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope > > > >Ed, >Your best bet is still the Nikon P6000 with a third party 52 >mm adapter. You get ED glass, much better screen, RAW and IR Remote >( optional). >Neil. > >>Greetings! >> >>I'm new to the group but have been happily digiscoping with my 65mm >>Swarovski scope and a Canon A570 (after I got over the shock of >>purchasing the Swarovski attachment rings, which cost more than the >>camera!). >> >>Most recently I was able to get some nice shots of the Bar-tailed >>Godwit that showed up at Newport Back Bay. >> >>Anyway, I was wondering if any of the newer Canons or other digital >>cameras can attach to the Swarovski. I purchased the Canon adapter >>for the A570. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. >> >>Regards, >>Ed >> >>Ed Stonick >>Pasadena, CA >> >>edstonick AT earthlink.net > > > > > Subject: Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: Ed Stonick <edstonick AT earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 17:44:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 06:23:34 +0800 Ed, Your best bet is still the Nikon P6000 with a third party 52 mm adapter. You get ED glass, much better screen, RAW and IR Remote ( optional). Neil. >Greetings! > >I'm new to the group but have been happily digiscoping with my 65mm >Swarovski scope and a Canon A570 (after I got over the shock of >purchasing the Swarovski attachment rings, which cost more than the >camera!). > >Most recently I was able to get some nice shots of the Bar-tailed >Godwit that showed up at Newport Back Bay. > >Anyway, I was wondering if any of the newer Canons or other digital >cameras can attach to the Swarovski. I purchased the Canon adapter >for the A570. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. > >Regards, >Ed > >Ed Stonick >Pasadena, CA > >edstonick AT earthlink.net > Subject: Digiscoping with Swarovski Scope From: Ed Stonick <edstonick AT earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 13:39:28 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Greetings! I'm new to the group but have been happily digiscoping with my 65mm Swarovski scope and a Canon A570 (after I got over the shock of purchasing the Swarovski attachment rings, which cost more than the camera!). Most recently I was able to get some nice shots of the Bar-tailed Godwit that showed up at Newport Back Bay. Anyway, I was wondering if any of the newer Canons or other digital cameras can attach to the Swarovski. I purchased the Canon adapter for the A570. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Regards, Ed Ed Stonick Pasadena, CA edstonick AT earthlink.net Subject: Re: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope From: "wturber" <jay AT studio522.com> Date: Wed, 04 Nov 2009 20:20:23 -0000 > I now use a William Optics 80MM refractor telescope at prime focus with a Nikon D50 DSLR. What I would like to know is which is better for nature photography. The last time I figured the power with the 80MM was around 14X. The optics are great. Thinking about getting a spotting scope if the quality improvement increase would justify the cost. ......................................... The advantages of a spotting scope intended for birding probably don't include improved optical quality. In general, the advantages of a spotting scope (refractor BTW) for birding are things like: Weather resistance and or water proofing. Light weight Compact designs High quality erecting prisms built in Better ergonomics for focusing and operating the scope in poor weather. The attributes above can be costly to achieve while still maintaining superb optical performance. Refractors designed primarily for astronomy make different compromises that tend to favor optical quality over convenience and ruggedness. As a consequence, dollar for dollar, a good astronomical refractor will typically be better optically than a top-quality birding scope. Though the differences will be pretty small. The reason to consider a non-astronomical spotting scope would be that you have a need for some of the characteristics listed above or for some other characteristic available that I've failed to list. It wouldn't typically be for a significant improvement in optical quality. Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Subject: Spotting scope vs refractor telescope From: "scoping10" <scoping10 AT yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 04 Nov 2009 11:02:48 -0000 Hi, I now use a William Optics 80MM refractor telescope at prime focus with a Nikon D50 DSLR. What I would like to know is which is better for nature photography. The last time I figured the power with the 80MM was around 14X. The optics are great. Thinking about getting a spotting scope if the quality improvement increase would justify the cost. Thanks Barre Subject: Zeiss Digiscooped Pic of the Week From: Stephen Ingraham <lightshedder AT gmail.com> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 07:07:54 -0500 Am. Goldfinch seed feeding in Cape May. PhotoScope http://zeisssports.wordpress.com/2009/11/03/digiscoped-pic-of-the-week-113/ -- Steve Ingraham lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com Point and Shoot Landscape: Pic of the Day Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com Subject: Re: Nikon Coolpix 995 From: Jeff Bouton <jbouton2 AT yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2009 08:13:45 -0800 (PST) Bill,   Len's apparently a lot more patient than I when he describes these older style universal adapters as "not so good", I'd say maddening to the point I wanted to throw the thing in the ocean. The GOOD thing about these adapters that made me buy one early on was that they were inexpensive I think I paid about $60. However, as Len suggests they were SO time consuming fiddling with the three seperate screws to take out all of the excess slack and center the camera that I missed MANY shots. This lasted for maybe a couple weeks before I upgraded to a better solution.   I went instead to a similar design that was machined exclusively to the diameter of my specific eyepiece. I purchased both a Spidertech adapter http://www.spidertech.fi/ada.php and one from Cheang in Malaysia. Both worked very well and allowed me to get phenomenal images with my old Coolpix 4500. To answer your question Len, no the old Swarovski sleeve will not work on the Leica I'm afraid. When dealing with a <4mm  wide exit pupil being off center by even half a mm or more can be a big deal.   Now for the real kicker though. If it were me I'd invest in a new camera as well. The Coolpix 990, 995, and 4500 were wonderful digiscoping cameras and many have (and a handful still) produced wonderful images with these cameras. That said, much like an adapter that simply works (albeit not very well) an OK camera can also add to digiscoping frustration that can be avoided simply with an upgrade. The Coolpix 995 is near 7-8 years old now. By digital p&s camera standards that is an eternity. Like any computerized device the advancements made from one generation to the next are both rapid and real improvements.   Since a typical "generation" of these small p&s cameras generally runs 8 months or so you are starting a good 10 generations of advancements/improvements behind more modern cameras. As such in direct comparison to modern contemporaries, the 995 will be frustratingly difficult to view in the field. The postage-stamp sized screen, is low resolution and lacks the backlit/reflective technologies of modern screens making it near impossible to view in daylight. Newer screens are typically 4x larger (maybe more) are very hi-res, and can be viewed effectively in daylight.   There is also the limitation of megapixel to consider, which some would argue is not as big a deal, however without this you are at a minimum of how much cropping and framing you can do. However, one of the most dramatic (and frustarting for me) differences between the old cameras and newer contemporaries is the incredible shutter lag. On these older Coolpix and other cameras similarly dated you could sing half a song between when you depressed the shutter release and when the image was actually recorded. Today's modern p&s cameras have much more sophisticated (and much faster & smaller) microprocessors. The result of this is a more pocket-sized camera that has near real time response. When shooting wildlife thi smakes a huge difference because even when you ask your subject to sit perfectly still for 2 full seconds, my experience was they often didn't! ;p   At any rate, believe me, this isn't a dig at these older cameras or at Nikon. In their day, these were the best digiscoping cameras bar none. Unfortunately, I can say with clear conscience that this is absolutely not true anymore. Nearly any modern p&s will perform better and you will definitely get more images, with much less frustration than with these older rigs. Including the ability to capture birds in flight and even smaller more active passerines which was near impossible with the slower early digiscoping cameras.   With all of that in mind, to simply get started in digiscoping if you want to go ahead and invest in the most cost effective system you can and get one of these very affordable universal designs with the three set screws. I'd certainly support this for anyone, to test the waters and see if you like digiscoping. Unfortunately, I've run into far too many who have not had good results and quit out of frustration. As such I offer the advice above and add the caveat that with a system that is far from ideal, you need to be proud of the results you get but not want to quit due to the limitations of an older or less than ideal system understanding your results can only get better by upgrading and with more practice.   Best,   Jeff Bouton Leica Sport Optics jbouton2 AT earthlink.net --- On Mon, 11/2/09, Len Blumin wrote: From: Len Blumin Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Nikon Coolpix 995 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 2, 2009, 8:17 PM   Bill-   The adapter looks like the type that was offered by EagleEye OpticZooms. There website was: www.eagleeyeuk. com. I used one with my Nikon 4500, which I believe as the same 28mm threads as the 995. The good thing about their "DigiMount Adapter", was that you could order it with the appropriate threads to fit the lens threads of various specific cameras, as well as a padded sleeve sized to fit your particular scope. The "not-so-good" feature was that is took a bit of fiddling to mount the adapter to the eyepiece when you wanted to take a shot, as it requires tightening 3 (or 4) set screws, which in turn compressed the "split ring" of the padded sleeve so as to firmly grip the eyepiece. I'd be happy to sell you the one I have, but the sleeve is sized to fit the older Swarovski 20-60 zoom, which is likely different from the Leica.   Cheers, Len Blumin On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 2:18 PM, gator1606 wrote:   I have a scope and the Nikon Coolpix 995 shown on the intro page. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter like the one in the photo. Thanks Bill Papet -- Cheers, Len Blumin, Mill Valley, California len.blumin AT gmail. com Swaro 80 HD, 30X, DCA, CoolPix 8400 http://www.flickriv er.com/photos/ lenblumin/ sets/72157614994 688364/ Subject: Re: Nikon Coolpix 995 From: Len Blumin <Len.blumin AT gmail.com> Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 17:17:36 -0800 Bill- The adapter looks like the type that was offered by EagleEye OpticZooms. There website was: www.eagleeyeuk.com. I used one with my Nikon 4500, which I believe as the same 28mm threads as the 995. The good thing about their "DigiMount Adapter", was that you could order it with the appropriate threads to fit the lens threads of various specific cameras, as well as a padded sleeve sized to fit your particular scope. The "not-so-good" feature was that is took a bit of fiddling to mount the adapter to the eyepiece when you wanted to take a shot, as it requires tightening 3 (or 4) set screws, which in turn compressed the "split ring" of the padded sleeve so as to firmly grip the eyepiece. I'd be happy to sell you the one I have, but the sleeve is sized to fit the older Swarovski 20-60 zoom, which is likely different from the Leica. Cheers, Len Blumin On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 2:18 PM, gator1606 wrote: > > > I have a scope and the Nikon Coolpix 995 shown on the intro page. Does > anyone know where I can get an adapter like the one in the photo. Thanks > Bill Papet > > > -- Cheers, Len Blumin, Mill Valley, California len.blumin AT gmail.com Swaro 80 HD, 30X, DCA, CoolPix 8400 http://www.flickriver.com/photos/lenblumin/sets/72157614994688364/ Subject: Nikon Coolpix 995 From: "gator1606" <gator1606 AT yahoo.com> Date: Mon, 02 Nov 2009 22:18:45 -0000 I have a scope and the Nikon Coolpix 995 shown on the intro page. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter like the one in the photo. Thanks Bill Papet Subject: Re: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week From: Stephen Ingraham <lightshedder AT gmail.com> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:09:11 -0400 I think...not sure...he means the link to my tip??? Might be hidden if you are using gmail. On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 3:28 PM, Don Morgan wrote: > > > Darned if I see any "blue link below" that makes any sense to this > conversation. > Don Morgan > > On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 6:38 PM, Gerry wrote: > >> >> >> Sweetest one-of-all, please click on the blue link below. :-) >> >> OJ, Gerry >> >> >> Stephen Ingraham wrote: >> >> >> >> Mind your back (ground) >> http://zeisssports.wordpress.com/2009/10/30/digiscoping-tip-of-the-week-1030/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> Steve Ingraham >> lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com >> >> >> Point and Shoot Landscape: >> Pic of the Day >> Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com >> >> >> >> > > > > -- Steve Ingraham lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com Point and Shoot Landscape: Pic of the Day Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com Subject: Re: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week From: Don Morgan <mntncougar AT gmail.com> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:28:52 -0400 Darned if I see any "blue link below" that makes any sense to this conversation. Don Morgan On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 6:38 PM, Gerry wrote: > > > Sweetest one-of-all, please click on the blue link below. :-) > > OJ, Gerry > > > Stephen Ingraham wrote: > > > > Mind your back (ground) > http://zeisssports.wordpress.com/2009/10/30/digiscoping-tip-of-the-week-1030/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > Steve Ingraham > lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com > > > Point and Shoot Landscape: > Pic of the Day > Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com > > > > > Subject: Canon SD780IS ? From: Stephen Ingraham <lightshedder AT gmail.com> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 06:56:24 -0400 Has anyone out there tried this camera, Canon SD780IS, for digiscoping? I am looking for a P&S that does HD video as well. -- Steve Ingraham lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com Point and Shoot Landscape: Pic of the Day Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com Subject: Re: Aperture / EV compensation question From: Subscriptions <subs AT dynsol.com> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 02:06:23 -0400 At 11:23 AM 10/30/2009, h2otara wrote: >I just got the Olympus 50mm/2.0 lens for my G1 and have a question >about camera aperture and EV compensation. If I set the camera >aperature at 2.0, the picture is correctly exposed at 0 EV comp., but >if I set it at 7.1, I have to set the EV comp to -3.0 to get the photo >exposed correctly. It makes it hard to focus in the LVF when it's >that dark. Any thoughts would be appreciated. If you are digiscoping, the scope, not the camera lens, determines the effective aperture. You want the camera lens wide open, using aperture priority, so that the camera won't try to stop it down, since stopping down will not affect the amount of light passed through the lens system (camera and scope) until you get WAY down. You want the camera to meter the light as it sees it through the lens and adjust only the shutter speed. This is because the camera can't actually stop the lens system down since the scope determines the aperture. Joe ------------------------------------ Please post bird photos to our other group birds-pix AT yahoogroups.com.Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/digiscopingbirds/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/digiscopingbirds/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:digiscopingbirds-digest AT yahoogroups.com mailto:digiscopingbirds-fullfeatured AT yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: digiscopingbirds-unsubscribe AT yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Subject: Re: Aperture / EV compensation question From: "h2otara" <h2otara AT comcast.net> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 23:49:56 -0000 Thank you Neil and Roger. A special thanks to Neil for showing us what great shots are possible using this lens. Tara --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, neilfif11 wrote: > > Tara, > If you are digiscoping then you want the f stop to be as > close to f2 as possible to maximise your shutter speed ( wide open ) > . You should set Aperture Priority to do this. If you stop down the > lens to f7 then vignetting/shadowing can creep in and it will throw > your light meter off. You can also use Manual Exposure to set this. > Neil. > > > >I just got the Olympus 50mm/2.0 lens for my G1 and have a question > >about camera aperture and EV compensation. If I set the camera > >aperature at 2.0, the picture is correctly exposed at 0 EV comp., > >but if I set it at 7.1, I have to set the EV comp to -3.0 to get the > >photo exposed correctly. It makes it hard to focus in the LVF when > >it's that dark. Any thoughts would be appreciated. > > > >Tara > > > Subject: Re: Aperture / EV compensation question From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 07:14:25 +0800 Tara, If you are digiscoping then you want the f stop to be as close to f2 as possible to maximise your shutter speed ( wide open ) . You should set Aperture Priority to do this. If you stop down the lens to f7 then vignetting/shadowing can creep in and it will throw your light meter off. You can also use Manual Exposure to set this. Neil. >I just got the Olympus 50mm/2.0 lens for my G1 and have a question >about camera aperture and EV compensation. If I set the camera >aperature at 2.0, the picture is correctly exposed at 0 EV comp., >but if I set it at 7.1, I have to set the EV comp to -3.0 to get the >photo exposed correctly. It makes it hard to focus in the LVF when >it's that dark. Any thoughts would be appreciated. > >Tara > Subject: Re: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week From: Gerry <wa9gon AT new.rr.com> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 17:38:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Aperture / EV compensation question From: Roger Isaacs <Roger.Isaacs AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:04:19 -0600 Hi Tara, You must have the camera set to Aperture Priority? Seems like the camera would adjust the shutter speed to compensate for aperture changes. Using Manual Mode is a workaround. Then you can set both Aperture and Shutter, and the LVF does not darken. But then you have to take test photos to see if the exposure is acceptable. I have to do this on the G1 when the eyepiece / lense causes vignetting (20/1.7 lense with kowa zoom eyepiece). Even when using cropping at the sensor to eliminate vignetting (extended optical zoom) the camera drastically over exposes apparently due to the vignetting. But Manual Mode works fine. Roger On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 9:23 AM, h2otara wrote: > > > I just got the Olympus 50mm/2.0 lens for my G1 and have a question about > camera aperture and EV compensation. If I set the camera aperature at 2.0, > the picture is correctly exposed at 0 EV comp., but if I set it at 7.1, I > have to set the EV comp to -3.0 to get the photo exposed correctly. It makes > it hard to focus in the LVF when it's that dark. Any thoughts would be > appreciated. > > Tara > > > Subject: Zeiss Digiscoping Tip of the Week From: Stephen Ingraham <lightshedder AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:19:14 -0400 Mind your back (ground) http://zeisssports.wordpress.com/2009/10/30/digiscoping-tip-of-the-week-1030/ -- Steve Ingraham lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com Point and Shoot Landscape: Pic of the Day Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com Subject: Aperture / EV compensation question From: "h2otara" <h2otara AT comcast.net> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:23:22 -0000 I just got the Olympus 50mm/2.0 lens for my G1 and have a question about camera aperture and EV compensation. If I set the camera aperature at 2.0, the picture is correctly exposed at 0 EV comp., but if I set it at 7.1, I have to set the EV comp to -3.0 to get the photo exposed correctly. It makes it hard to focus in the LVF when it's that dark. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Tara Subject: Zeiss Digiscooped Pic of the Week From: Stephen Ingraham <lightshedder AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:01:47 -0400 Great Blue Heron at the Alert: PhotoScoped http://zeisssports.wordpress.com/2009/10/28/digiscoping-pic-of-the-week-1028/ -- Steve Ingraham lightshedder: www.lightshedder.com Point and Shoot Landscape: Pic of the Day Cloudy Days and Netbook Nights: cdnn.wordpress.com Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: "Anand Arya - GMail" <anandswarooparya AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:27:22 +0530 Heard from Jay. He is concentrating more on table tennis than on birding but would let me know when he goes birding. Cheers. Anand Arya ----- Original Message ----- From: neilfif11 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 Anand, I bought the Panasonic GF1 today with the 20/1.7P lens. A great combo when used with the Swarovski 25-50x eyepiece. The DCA adapter just screws into the lens thread , although it's 46 mm so needs a step up converter to 52 mm. Luckily I had one. This lens will go well with the G1 which I like as it has the rotatable screen. I'll try and contact Jay for you. Last I heard he lived in Fountain Hills which is the other side of Scottsdale but he works in Phoenix. Have you visited the Phoenix Botanical Gardens yet? Also the ponds around McCormack Ranch in Scottsdale are great for ducks and geese. Neil Hi Neil, Am here in Phoenix. Spent time in a store looking at the scopes - got to see only Swarovsky with its attachments etc which looked a pretty dainty set up but difficult to handle and master. The guy did not have Kowa and Zeiss. The Photoscope is not likely before March so that is out for now. I sent a couple of e-mails to Jay in Tucson but have not heard from here. May be he is travelling. Would it be possible for you to introduce me to him and also ask if he could help me buy the set up and also give a bit of training. I can travel to Tucson where there should be stores and birding opportunities are there. Regards. Anand Arya On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:47 AM, neilfif11 wrote: Jay, A clear explanation as usual from you. I had a quick look at the B and H site to get figures for the major brands zoom eyepieces. Swarovski FOV 20 - 60 zoom 40-65 25 - 50 zoom 60-70 Kowa 20 - 60 zoom 44 - 63 Zeiss 20 - 60 zoom 48-67 Leica 25 - 50 zoom 59 - 80 No figures for Nikon. I presume the two figures shown are for 80 and 65 mm scopes but maybe someone could confirm. If this is the case , then based on Jay's figures the newer 25 - 50 zoom eyepieces could be ok with the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens but not the traditional 20 -60 zooms. I guess I'll have to get one and test it out. Neil Hong Kong, China. October 2009 >Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while >digiscoping. > >A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if >your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will >get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm >lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on >a 35mm camera. > >Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification >levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at >lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept >when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is >zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at >the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is >zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like >the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years >ago. > >Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it >typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that >you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by >further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your >attachment method will dictate how practical that is. > >Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. >So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The >problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html >(I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro >four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) > >Jay Turberville >www.jayandwanda.com > > Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: "Anand Arya - GMail" <anandswarooparya AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:11:50 +0530 Thanks, Neil. I waiting to hear from Zeiss Rep in my son-in-law's hospital if the Photoscope can be made available. If not, then I go with Swa and would then choose the Camera and Lens. Cheers. Anand Arya ----- Original Message ----- From: neilfif11 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 6:52 PM Subject: Re: [digiscopingbirds] Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 Anand, I'm glad your having fun. I'm sure Pete will show you some good spots. The kit zoom is a good starting point and screws straight into the DCA adapter with it's 52 mm thread. As it's internally focusing it's easy to use but it vignettes on zoom eyepieces but not fixed eyepieces. The 20/1.7 is a better/sharper lens ( about 10%) than the zoom. and works well with the 25-50x zoom so that would be way I would go. This would give you a range from 1000 mm to 2000 mm with AF. Neil. Thanks, Neil. Would probably get in to the groove soon. Had been to the Arboretum with Pete Moulton - a great place. Was a pretty good outing. Would be covering the local sites later this week. Am missing my 800 and the assistants who carry these on hike for me. Feel like a fish out of pond with just about a 400mm reach. Getting into digiscoping for some good images would be a must. Do I need this lens as well in addition to 14-45 kit withG1 ? Regards. Anand Arya On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 8:03 PM, neilfif11 wrote: Anand, I bought the Panasonic GF1 today with the 20/1.7P lens. A great combo when used with the Swarovski 25-50x eyepiece. The DCA adapter just screws into the lens thread , although it's 46 mm so needs a step up converter to 52 mm. Luckily I had one. This lens will go well with the G1 which I like as it has the rotatable screen. I'll try and contact Jay for you. Last I heard he lived in Fountain Hills which is the other side of Scottsdale but he works in Phoenix. Have you visited the Phoenix Botanical Gardens yet? Also the ponds around McCormack Ranch in Scottsdale are great for ducks and geese. Neil Hi Neil, Am here in Phoenix. Spent time in a store looking at the scopes - got to see only Swarovsky with its attachments etc which looked a pretty dainty set up but difficult to handle and master. The guy did not have Kowa and Zeiss. The Photoscope is not likely before March so that is out for now. I sent a couple of e-mails to Jay in Tucson but have not heard from here. May be he is travelling. Would it be possible for you to introduce me to him and also ask if he could help me buy the set up and also give a bit of training. I can travel to Tucson where there should be stores and birding opportunities are there. Regards. Anand Arya On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:47 AM, neilfif11 wrote: Jay, A clear explanation as usual from you. I had a quick look at the B and H site to get figures for the major brands zoom eyepieces. Swarovski FOV 20 - 60 zoom 40-65 25 - 50 zoom 60-70 Kowa 20 - 60 zoom 44 - 63 Zeiss 20 - 60 zoom 48-67 Leica 25 - 50 zoom 59 - 80 No figures for Nikon. I presume the two figures shown are for 80 and 65 mm scopes but maybe someone could confirm. If this is the case , then based on Jay's figures the newer 25 - 50 zoom eyepieces could be ok with the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens but not the traditional 20 -60 zooms. I guess I'll have to get one and test it out. Neil Hong Kong, China. October 2009 >Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while >digiscoping. > >A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if >your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will >get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm >lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on >a 35mm camera. > >Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification >levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at >lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept >when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is >zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at >the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is >zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like >the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years >ago. > >Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it >typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that >you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by >further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your >attachment method will dictate how practical that is. > >Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. >So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The >problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html >(I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro >four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) > >Jay Turberville >www.jayandwanda.com > > Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:22:50 +0800 Anand, I'm glad your having fun. I'm sure Pete will show you some good spots. The kit zoom is a good starting point and screws straight into the DCA adapter with it's 52 mm thread. As it's internally focusing it's easy to use but it vignettes on zoom eyepieces but not fixed eyepieces. The 20/1.7 is a better/sharper lens ( about 10%) than the zoom. and works well with the 25-50x zoom so that would be way I would go. This would give you a range from 1000 mm to 2000 mm with AF. Neil. >Thanks, Neil. > >Would probably get in to the groove soon. >Had been to the Arboretum with Pete Moulton - a great place. Was a >pretty good outing. >Would be covering the local sites later this week. > >Am missing my 800 and the assistants who carry these on hike for me. >Feel like a fish out of pond with just about a 400mm reach. Getting >into digiscoping for some good images would be a must. Do I need >this lens as well in addition to 14-45 kit withG1 ? > >Regards. > >Anand Arya > > > > >On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 8:03 PM, neilfif11 ><neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> wrote: > > > >Anand, > I bought the Panasonic GF1 today with the 20/1.7P lens. >A great combo when used with the Swarovski 25-50x eyepiece. The DCA >adapter just screws into the lens thread , although it's 46 mm so >needs a step up converter to 52 mm. Luckily I had one. >This lens will go well with the G1 which I like as it has the >rotatable screen. >I'll try and contact Jay for you. Last I heard he lived in Fountain >Hills which is the other side of Scottsdale but he works in Phoenix. >Have you visited the Phoenix Botanical Gardens yet? Also the ponds >around McCormack Ranch in Scottsdale are great for ducks and geese. >Neil > >>Hi Neil, >> > > >Am here in Phoenix. > >Spent time in a store looking at the scopes - got to see only >Swarovsky with its attachments etc which looked a pretty dainty set >up but difficult to handle and master. The guy did not have Kowa >and Zeiss. > > > >The Photoscope is not likely before March so that is out for now. > > > >I sent a couple of e-mails to Jay in Tucson but have not heard from >here. May be he is travelling. Would it be possible for you to >introduce me to him and also ask if he could help me buy the set up >and also give a bit of training. I can travel to Tucson where there >should be stores and birding opportunities are there. > > > >Regards. > > > >Anand Arya > >On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:47 AM, neilfif11 ><neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> wrote: > > > >Jay, >A clear explanation as usual from you. >I had a quick look at the B and H site to get figures for the major >brands zoom eyepieces. >Swarovski FOV >20 - 60 zoom 40-65 >25 - 50 zoom 60-70 > >Kowa >20 - 60 zoom 44 - 63 > >Zeiss >20 - 60 zoom 48-67 > >Leica >25 - 50 zoom 59 - 80 > >No figures for Nikon. > >I presume the two figures shown are for 80 and 65 mm scopes but maybe >someone could confirm. > >If this is the case , then based on Jay's figures the newer 25 - 50 >zoom eyepieces could be ok with the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens but not >the traditional 20 -60 zooms. >I guess I'll have to get one and test it out. > >Neil > >Hong Kong, >China. >October 2009 > > > >>Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while >>digiscoping. >> >>A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if >>your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will >>get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm >>lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on >>a 35mm camera. >> >>Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification >>levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at >>lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept >>when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is >>zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at >>the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is > >zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like >>the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years >>ago. >> >>Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it >>typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that >>you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by >>further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your >>attachment method will dictate how practical that is. >> >>Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. >>So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The >>problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. >> >>http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html >>http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html >>(I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro >>four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) >> >>Jay Turberville >>www.jayandwanda.com >> >> > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: Anand Arya <anandswarooparya AT gmail.com> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 18:26:59 +0530 Thanks, Neil. Would probably get in to the groove soon. Had been to the Arboretum with Pete Moulton - a great place. Was a pretty good outing. Would be covering the local sites later this week. Am missing my 800 and the assistants who carry these on hike for me. Feel like a fish out of pond with just about a 400mm reach. Getting into digiscoping for some good images would be a must. Do I need this lens as well in addition to 14-45 kit withG1 ? Regards. Anand Arya On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 8:03 PM, neilfif11 wrote: > > > Anand, > I bought the Panasonic GF1 today with the 20/1.7P lens. A > great combo when used with the Swarovski 25-50x eyepiece. The DCA adapter > just screws into the lens thread , although it's 46 mm so needs a step up > converter to 52 mm. Luckily I had one. > This lens will go well with the G1 which I like as it has the rotatable > screen. > I'll try and contact Jay for you. Last I heard he lived in Fountain Hills > which is the other side of Scottsdale but he works in Phoenix. > Have you visited the Phoenix Botanical Gardens yet? Also the ponds around > McCormack Ranch in Scottsdale are great for ducks and geese. > Neil > > Hi Neil, > > > > Am here in Phoenix. > > Spent time in a store looking at the scopes - got to see only Swarovsky > with its attachments etc which looked a pretty dainty set up but difficult > to handle and master. The guy did not have Kowa and Zeiss. > > > > The Photoscope is not likely before March so that is out for now. > > > > I sent a couple of e-mails to Jay in Tucson but have not heard from here. > May be he is travelling. Would it be possible for you to introduce me to > him and also ask if he could help me buy the set up and also give a bit of > training. I can travel to Tucson where there should be stores and birding > opportunities are there. > > > > Regards. > > > > Anand Arya > > On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:47 AM, neilfif11 wrote: > > > > Jay, > A clear explanation as usual from you. > I had a quick look at the B and H site to get figures for the major > brands zoom eyepieces. > Swarovski FOV > 20 - 60 zoom 40-65 > 25 - 50 zoom 60-70 > > Kowa > 20 - 60 zoom 44 - 63 > > Zeiss > 20 - 60 zoom 48-67 > > Leica > 25 - 50 zoom 59 - 80 > > No figures for Nikon. > > I presume the two figures shown are for 80 and 65 mm scopes but maybe > someone could confirm. > > If this is the case , then based on Jay's figures the newer 25 - 50 > zoom eyepieces could be ok with the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens but not > the traditional 20 -60 zooms. > I guess I'll have to get one and test it out. > > Neil > > Hong Kong, > China. > October 2009 > > > > >Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while > >digiscoping. > > > >A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if > >your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will > >get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm > >lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on > >a 35mm camera. > > > >Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification > >levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at > >lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept > >when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is > >zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at > >the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is > >zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like > >the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years > >ago. > > > >Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it > >typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that > >you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by > >further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your > >attachment method will dictate how practical that is. > > > >Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. > >So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The > >problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. > > > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html > >(I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro > >four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) > > > >Jay Turberville > >www.jayandwanda.com > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - photo From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:40:54 +0800 Jerry, It's a great camera in it's own right. I haven't taken many photos with it yet but here is one from today. As the lens is fast at f1.7 you can shoot indoors without flash. Neil. >THAT is a stunning photo, Neil! Thanks for keeping us up to snuff >on the latest. I'm thinking of getting my wife the GFI w/ 20mm/1.7 >lens for her personal use (and try to digiscope on my Zeiss 85 w/ >the 20-60X zoom eyepiece). Can you recommend it as a >non-digiscoping camera? > >Thanks, > >Jerry >http://jerryjourdan.blogspot.com > > > >On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 7:53 AM, neilfif11 ><neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> wrote: > > > >Out to the local park to test out the 20/1.7 P lens. I'm impressed >with the AF and the sharpness. It's seems sharper than the Olympus >25/2.8 P but not quite as sharp as the Olympus 50/2.8 Macro. >Neil > >Panasonic GF1 plus Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope >and Sw25-50x zoom eyepiece and DCA adapter > >Hong Kong, >China >Oct 2009 > > > > > Subject: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - photo From: Jerry Jourdan <jourdaj AT gmail.com> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 06:38:40 -0400 THAT is a stunning photo, Neil! Thanks for keeping us up to snuff on the latest. I'm thinking of getting my wife the GFI w/ 20mm/1.7 lens for her personal use (and try to digiscope on my Zeiss 85 w/ the 20-60X zoom eyepiece). Can you recommend it as a non-digiscoping camera? Thanks, Jerry http://jerryjourdan.blogspot.com On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 7:53 AM, neilfif11 wrote: > > > Out to the local park to test out the 20/1.7 P lens. I'm impressed > with the AF and the sharpness. It's seems sharper than the Olympus > 25/2.8 P but not quite as sharp as the Olympus 50/2.8 Macro. > Neil > > Panasonic GF1 plus Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope > and Sw25-50x zoom eyepiece and DCA adapter > > Hong Kong, > China > Oct 2009 > > Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:52:33 +0800 David, A small amount of vignetting is there even without the step down ring. I haven't got the Live Viewfinder so am using the LCD screen which is difficult in bright sun. Neil >Excellent shot of the Night Heron Neil! >Could the vignetting at lower magnification be due to your using a >43mm step-down ring on the 46mm lens? I'm trying to find out the >female diameter of the DCA; it may then be possible to get one ring >for coupling, thus bringing lens closer to the eyepiece. >Did you also buy Panasonic's live viewfinder or are you using the LCD screen? >Regards >David > > > >From: neilfif11 >To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com >Sent: Mon, 26 October, 2009 5:49:13 PM >Subject: [digiscopingbirds] Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news > > > >David, >I've got a 37/43/52/58 mm threads for my DCA. I couldn't >find a 46/52 converter in my "box of tricks" but I had a 46/43 mm so >I'm using that for the time being. As I have two DCAs it means that >I can have a 43 and 52 mm setup for two different cameras ( eg GF1 >and P6000 ) and switch them in and out quickly. >I would expect it to work ok with the 65mm scope. >Neil > >>Many thanks for the update Neil. I'm very happy to learn that it >>works using the DCA and 25-50 eyepiece on your 80mm scope. I suppose >>there is no reason to expect that it wouldn't work on my ATS65HD? >>I am a bit puzzled by your reference to the 46-43 step down ring. >>According to dpreview this lens has a 46 mm filter thread. I had >>foreseen using the DCA-supplied 52mm ring plus a 52mm-46mm step >>down filter ring. >>Cheers >>David >>--- In digiscopingbirds AT >>yahoogroups. com, neilfif11 wrote: >>> >>> >"As this lens is externally focusing and a 46 mm thread I haven't done >>> >a test on the DCA yet. I wouldn't want to lose the AF, which is >>> >blindingly fast, so I will use it on a balance bar or the Swarovski >>> UCA." >>> >>> I found a 46 - 43 step down ring to use with the DCA adapter. Set it >>> up on the new 25 - 50x zoom and the AF works ok as the camera moves >>> in and out when focusing. This may put a little strain on the lens >>> but as I would mostly be holding it when focusing I'm hoping this >>> will be ok. A little corner vignetting at 25x but seems to have gone >>> by 30x ( minor shadowing left ). The DCA does a better job of >>> aligning the camera square to the eyepiece than my balance bar setup >>> by eye. >>> I'm very excited as this would allow me to travel lightly with only >>> the GF1 and the zoom eyepiece. And I can take HD video with this >>> setup. >>> Neil >>> >>> Hong Kong, >>> China. >>> October 2009 >> > >> > > > > >Get more done like never before with Yahoo!7 Mail. < >http://au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/launch09/tagline/*http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTFnY201cHJnBHRtX2RtZWNoA1RleHQgTGluawR0bV9sbmsDVTExMDQ3NjAEdG1fbmV0A1lhaG9vIQ--/SIG=11aljvgo4/*http%3A//au.overview.mail.yahoo.com/ > >>Learn more. > > Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news From: David Free <hasherd AT yahoo.com> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 22:43:30 -0700 (PDT) Excellent shot of the Night Heron Neil! Could the vignetting at lower magnification be due to your using a 43mm step-down ring on the 46mm lens? I'm trying to find out the female diameter of the DCA; it may then be possible to get one ring for coupling, thus bringing lens closer to the eyepiece. Did you also buy Panasonic's live viewfinder or are you using the LCD screen? Regards David ________________________________ From: neilfif11 To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, 26 October, 2009 5:49:13 PM Subject: [digiscopingbirds] Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news David, I've got a 37/43/52/58 mm threads for my DCA. I couldn't find a 46/52 converter in my "box of tricks" but I had a 46/43 mm so I'm using that for the time being. As I have two DCAs it means that I can have a 43 and 52 mm setup for two different cameras ( eg GF1 and P6000 ) and switch them in and out quickly. I would expect it to work ok with the 65mm scope. Neil >Many thanks for the update Neil. I'm very happy to learn that it >works using the DCA and 25-50 eyepiece on your 80mm scope. I suppose >there is no reason to expect that it wouldn't work on my ATS65HD? >I am a bit puzzled by your reference to the 46-43 step down ring. >According to dpreview this lens has a 46 mm filter thread. I had >foreseen using the DCA-supplied 52mm ring plus a 52mm-46mm step >down filter ring. >Cheers >David >--- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups. com, neilfif11 wrote: >> >> >"As this lens is externally focusing and a 46 mm thread I haven't done >> >a test on the DCA yet. I wouldn't want to lose the AF, which is >> >blindingly fast, so I will use it on a balance bar or the Swarovski >> UCA." >> >> I found a 46 - 43 step down ring to use with the DCA adapter. Set it >> up on the new 25 - 50x zoom and the AF works ok as the camera moves >> in and out when focusing. This may put a little strain on the lens >> but as I would mostly be holding it when focusing I'm hoping this >> will be ok. A little corner vignetting at 25x but seems to have gone >> by 30x ( minor shadowing left ). The DCA does a better job of >> aligning the camera square to the eyepiece than my balance bar setup >> by eye. >> I'm very excited as this would allow me to travel lightly with only >> the GF1 and the zoom eyepiece. And I can take HD video with this >> setup. >> Neil >> >> Hong Kong, >> China. >> October 2009 > > > __________________________________________________________________________________ Get more done like never before with Yahoo!7 Mail. Learn more: http://au.overview.mail.yahoo.com/ Subject: Re: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: Anand Arya <anandswarooparya AT gmail.com> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:04:43 +0530 Hi Neil, Am here in Phoenix. Spent time in a store looking at the scopes - got to see only Swarovsky with its attachments etc which looked a pretty dainty set up but difficult to handle and master. The guy did not have Kowa and Zeiss. The Photoscope is not likely before March so that is out for now. I sent a couple of e-mails to Jay in Tucson but have not heard from here. May be he is travelling. Would it be possible for you to introduce me to him and also ask if he could help me buy the set up and also give a bit of training. I can travel to Tucson where there should be stores and birding opportunities are there. Regards. Anand Arya On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:47 AM, neilfif11 wrote: > > > Jay, > A clear explanation as usual from you. > I had a quick look at the B and H site to get figures for the major > brands zoom eyepieces. > Swarovski FOV > 20 - 60 zoom 40-65 > 25 - 50 zoom 60-70 > > Kowa > 20 - 60 zoom 44 - 63 > > Zeiss > 20 - 60 zoom 48-67 > > Leica > 25 - 50 zoom 59 - 80 > > No figures for Nikon. > > I presume the two figures shown are for 80 and 65 mm scopes but maybe > someone could confirm. > > If this is the case , then based on Jay's figures the newer 25 - 50 > zoom eyepieces could be ok with the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens but not > the traditional 20 -60 zooms. > I guess I'll have to get one and test it out. > > Neil > > Hong Kong, > China. > October 2009 > > > >Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while > >digiscoping. > > > >A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if > >your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will > >get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm > >lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on > >a 35mm camera. > > > >Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification > >levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at > >lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept > >when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is > >zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at > >the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is > >zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like > >the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years > >ago. > > > >Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it > >typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that > >you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by > >further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your > >attachment method will dictate how practical that is. > > > >Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. > >So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The > >problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. > > > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html > >(I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro > >four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) > > > >Jay Turberville > >www.jayandwanda.com > > > > > > > Subject: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - photo From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:53:24 +0800 Out to the local park to test out the 20/1.7 P lens. I'm impressed with the AF and the sharpness. It's seems sharper than the Olympus 25/2.8 P but not quite as sharp as the Olympus 50/2.8 Macro. Neil Panasonic GF1 plus Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens on Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw25-50x zoom eyepiece and DCA adapter Hong Kong, China Oct 2009 Subject: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:49:13 +0800 David, I've got a 37/43/52/58 mm threads for my DCA. I couldn't find a 46/52 converter in my "box of tricks" but I had a 46/43 mm so I'm using that for the time being. As I have two DCAs it means that I can have a 43 and 52 mm setup for two different cameras ( eg GF1 and P6000 ) and switch them in and out quickly. I would expect it to work ok with the 65mm scope. Neil >Many thanks for the update Neil. I'm very happy to learn that it >works using the DCA and 25-50 eyepiece on your 80mm scope. I suppose >there is no reason to expect that it wouldn't work on my ATS65HD? >I am a bit puzzled by your reference to the 46-43 step down ring. >According to dpreview this lens has a 46 mm filter thread. I had >foreseen using the DCA-supplied 52mm ring plus a 52mm-46mm step >down filter ring. >Cheers >David >--- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, neilfif11 wrote: >> >> >"As this lens is externally focusing and a 46 mm thread I haven't done >> >a test on the DCA yet. I wouldn't want to lose the AF, which is >> >blindingly fast, so I will use it on a balance bar or the Swarovski >> UCA." >> >> I found a 46 - 43 step down ring to use with the DCA adapter. Set it >> up on the new 25 - 50x zoom and the AF works ok as the camera moves >> in and out when focusing. This may put a little strain on the lens >> but as I would mostly be holding it when focusing I'm hoping this >> will be ok. A little corner vignetting at 25x but seems to have gone >> by 30x ( minor shadowing left ). The DCA does a better job of >> aligning the camera square to the eyepiece than my balance bar setup >> by eye. >> I'm very excited as this would allow me to travel lightly with only >> the GF1 and the zoom eyepiece. And I can take HD video with this >> setup. >> Neil >> >> Hong Kong, >> China. >> October 2009 > > > Subject: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news From: "hasherd" <hasherd AT yahoo.com> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:36:00 -0000 Many thanks for the update Neil. I'm very happy to learn that it works using the DCA and 25-50 eyepiece on your 80mm scope. I suppose there is no reason to expect that it wouldn't work on my ATS65HD? I am a bit puzzled by your reference to the 46-43 step down ring. According to dpreview this lens has a 46 mm filter thread. I had foreseen using the DCA-supplied 52mm ring plus a 52mm-46mm step down filter ring. Cheers David --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, neilfif11 wrote: > > >"As this lens is externally focusing and a 46 mm thread I haven't done > >a test on the DCA yet. I wouldn't want to lose the AF, which is > >blindingly fast, so I will use it on a balance bar or the Swarovski > UCA." > > I found a 46 - 43 step down ring to use with the DCA adapter. Set it > up on the new 25 - 50x zoom and the AF works ok as the camera moves > in and out when focusing. This may put a little strain on the lens > but as I would mostly be holding it when focusing I'm hoping this > will be ok. A little corner vignetting at 25x but seems to have gone > by 30x ( minor shadowing left ). The DCA does a better job of > aligning the camera square to the eyepiece than my balance bar setup > by eye. > I'm very excited as this would allow me to travel lightly with only > the GF1 and the zoom eyepiece. And I can take HD video with this > setup. > Neil > > Hong Kong, > China. > October 2009 > Subject: Re: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens - More news From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 15:09:46 +0800 >"As this lens is externally focusing and a 46 mm thread I haven't done >a test on the DCA yet. I wouldn't want to lose the AF, which is >blindingly fast, so I will use it on a balance bar or the Swarovski UCA." I found a 46 - 43 step down ring to use with the DCA adapter. Set it up on the new 25 - 50x zoom and the AF works ok as the camera moves in and out when focusing. This may put a little strain on the lens but as I would mostly be holding it when focusing I'm hoping this will be ok. A little corner vignetting at 25x but seems to have gone by 30x ( minor shadowing left ). The DCA does a better job of aligning the camera square to the eyepiece than my balance bar setup by eye. I'm very excited as this would allow me to travel lightly with only the GF1 and the zoom eyepiece. And I can take HD video with this setup. Neil Hong Kong, China. October 2009 Subject: Panasonic GF1 plus 20/1.7mm P lens From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:37:18 +0800 Well I finally weakened after coming into some windfall money on the weekend and got the GF1 plus 20/1.7 mm P package deal. I rushed straight home and set the camera up on the balance bar with the old and new Swarovski zooms. It's not as bad as I thought and the results show that on the 20-60 zoom the vignetting is mostly gone by 50x and there is none at 60x . This is not too bad as it's equivalent to 2000 mm which is serious digiscoping and where I like to be these days. Even at 20x with a bird in the center it's manageable with cropping. With the new 25-50 zoom as expected there is a little vignetting at 25x but it's gone at 40x and I would even worry about it at 30x. As this lens is externally focusing and a 46 mm thread I haven't done a test on the DCA yet. I wouldn't want to lose the AF, which is blindingly fast, so I will use it on a balance bar or the Swarovski UCA. If anyone wants any more tests done let me know. I hope to get out in the field this afternoon. Neil ps there is more technical info here http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/panasonic_20_1p7_o20/ Hong Kong, China Oct 2009 Subject: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: neilfif11 <neilfif11 AT yahoo.com.au> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 08:17:15 +0800 Jay, A clear explanation as usual from you. I had a quick look at the B and H site to get figures for the major brands zoom eyepieces. Swarovski FOV 20 - 60 zoom 40-65 25 - 50 zoom 60-70 Kowa 20 - 60 zoom 44 - 63 Zeiss 20 - 60 zoom 48-67 Leica 25 - 50 zoom 59 - 80 No figures for Nikon. I presume the two figures shown are for 80 and 65 mm scopes but maybe someone could confirm. If this is the case , then based on Jay's figures the newer 25 - 50 zoom eyepieces could be ok with the Panasonic 20/1.7 P lens but not the traditional 20 -60 zooms. I guess I'll have to get one and test it out. Neil Hong Kong, China. October 2009 >Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while >digiscoping. > >A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if >your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will >get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm >lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on >a 35mm camera. > >Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification >levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at >lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept >when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is >zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at >the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is >zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like >the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years >ago. > >Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it >typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that >you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by >further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your >attachment method will dictate how practical that is. > >Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. >So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The >problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. > >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html >http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html >(I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro >four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) > >Jay Turberville >www.jayandwanda.com > > Subject: Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes From: "Gene" <smithhill1 AT embarqmail.com> Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 22:56:52 -0000 I am a point and shoot camera person and I cannot help you much with the Rebel. Do remember that the DSLR weighs over a pound, or twice as much as many P&S. You cannot hang it by the lens, you would have to have a separate support rail ($ & weight). How well it would work would depend upon the lens you selected to use with it. I like to use a P&S camera that has an attachable filter adapter tube that will screw on the eye piece. I use the LX3 with a special adapter. It is a bit pricy, as is the Nikon P-6000. You can buy the discontinued Canon A-590 for less than $100. I can give you quality pics. Gene --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "skyman845" wrote: > > interesting and thanks > > these work with a Canon EOS Xsi that you know of? > > --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "Gene" wrote: > > > > > > > > I see there are reviews of the Regal Scopes and say they are very good for the money. The zoom eyepiece is also said to be new and better than Celestron normally puts on their scopes. It is also said to Digiscope, however one Birdforum report says there is field curvature. So, there always is. The question is how good or bad it is. > > > > Anyway, zooms seem to always be poor or not so good for digiscoping. You may want to try a Baadar Hyperion prime (no zoom). Quality eyepieces with 20mm eye relief, 33mm dia. eye lens, wide 68 deg view, top threads, and all for $119. Digiscopes very well. I have five of them. This is a great advantage for this scope to be able to use standard 1 1/4 astro eyepieces. Gene > > > > > > > > > > --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "skyman845" wrote: > > > > > > Hello I just received the Regal 100. Has anyone else tried this scope and are there any opinions? > > > > > >> > >>>> > > > > > > > At 05:47 PM 2009-02-02, Rick Phillips wrote: > > > > >>>> > >Anyone had any experiences or heard any comments regarding the new > > > > >>>> > >Celestron Regal series of spotting scopes which allow the use of any > > > > >>>> > >standard 1.25" astronomical eyepieces? > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>> > Good Viewing, > > > > >>>> > Steve Sosensky > > > > >>>> > VP of Operations > > > > >>>> > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes From: "Gene" <smithhill1 AT embarqmail.com> Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 20:08:06 -0000 I am a point and shoot person and I cannot help you much with the Rebel. Do remember that the DSLR weighs over a pound, or twice as much as many P&S. You cannot hang it by the lens, you would have to have a separate support rail ($ & Weight) How well it would work would depend upon the lens you selected to use with it. I like to use a P&S camera that has an attachable filter adapter tube that will screw on the eye piece. I use the LX3, with special adapter. It is a bit pricy, as is the Nikon P-9000 (also has the attachable tube). You can buy the discontinued Canon A-590 for lesss than $100. It can give you quality pics. Gene --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "skyman845" wrote: > > interesting and thanks > > these work with a Canon EOS Xsi that you know of? > > --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "Gene" wrote: > > > > > > > > I see there are reviews of the Regal Scopes and say they are very good for the money. The zoom eyepiece is also said to be new and better than Celestron normally puts on their scopes. It is also said to Digiscope, however one Birdforum report says there is field curvature. So, there always is. The question is how good or bad it is. > > > > Anyway, zooms seem to always be poor or not so good for digiscoping. You may want to try a Baadar Hyperion prime (no zoom). Quality eyepieces with 20mm eye relief, 33mm dia. eye lens, wide 68 deg view, top threads, and all for $119. Digiscopes very well. I have five of them. This is a great advantage for this scope to be able to use standard 1 1/4 astro eyepieces. Gene > > > > > > > > > > --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "skyman845" wrote: > > > > > > Hello I just received the Regal 100. Has anyone else tried this scope and are there any opinions? > > > > > >> > >>>> > > > > > > > At 05:47 PM 2009-02-02, Rick Phillips wrote: > > > > >>>> > >Anyone had any experiences or heard any comments regarding the new > > > > >>>> > >Celestron Regal series of spotting scopes which allow the use of any > > > > >>>> > >standard 1.25" astronomical eyepieces? > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>> > Good Viewing, > > > > >>>> > Steve Sosensky > > > > >>>> > VP of Operations > > > > >>>> > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes From: "skyman845" <skyman845 AT yahoo.ca> Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 05:41:35 -0000 interesting and thanks these work with a Canon EOS Xsi that you know of? --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "Gene" wrote: > > > > I see there are reviews of the Regal Scopes and say they are very good for the money. The zoom eyepiece is also said to be new and better than Celestron normally puts on their scopes. It is also said to Digiscope, however one Birdforum report says there is field curvature. So, there always is. The question is how good or bad it is. > > Anyway, zooms seem to always be poor or not so good for digiscoping. You may want to try a Baadar Hyperion prime (no zoom). Quality eyepieces with 20mm eye relief, 33mm dia. eye lens, wide 68 deg view, top threads, and all for $119. Digiscopes very well. I have five of them. This is a great advantage for this scope to be able to use standard 1 1/4 astro eyepieces. Gene > > > > > --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "skyman845" wrote: > > > > Hello I just received the Regal 100. Has anyone else tried this scope and are there any opinions? > > > >> > >>>> > > > > At 05:47 PM 2009-02-02, Rick Phillips wrote: > > > >>>> > >Anyone had any experiences or heard any comments regarding the new > > > >>>> > >Celestron Regal series of spotting scopes which allow the use of any > > > >>>> > >standard 1.25" astronomical eyepieces? > > > >>>> > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>> > Good Viewing, > > > >>>> > Steve Sosensky > > > >>>> > VP of Operations > > > >>>> > > > > Subject: Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes From: "Gene" <smithhill1 AT embarqmail.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:51:08 -0000 I see there are reviews of the Regal Scopes and say they are very good for the money. The zoom eyepiece is also said to be new and better than Celestron normally puts on their scopes. It is also said to Digiscope, however one Birdforum report says there is field curvature. So, there always is. The question is how good or bad it is. Anyway, zooms seem to always be poor or not so good for digiscoping. You may want to try a Baadar Hyperion prime (no zoom). Quality eyepieces with 20mm eye relief, 33mm dia. eye lens, wide 68 deg view, top threads, and all for $119. Digiscopes very well. I have five of them. This is a great advantage for this scope to be able to use standard 1 1/4 astro eyepieces. Gene --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "skyman845" wrote: > > Hello I just received the Regal 100. Has anyone else tried this scope and are there any opinions? > >> > >>>> > At 05:47 PM 2009-02-02, Rick Phillips wrote: > > >>>> > >Anyone had any experiences or heard any comments regarding the new > > >>>> > >Celestron Regal series of spotting scopes which allow the use of any > > >>>> > >standard 1.25" astronomical eyepieces? > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > Good Viewing, > > >>>> > Steve Sosensky > > >>>> > VP of Operations > > >>>> > > Subject: Re: Celestron Regal Spotting Scopes From: "skyman845" <skyman845 AT yahoo.ca> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 06:12:25 -0000 Hello I just received the Regal 100. Has anyone else tried this scope and are there any opinions? Greg Regina, SK Canada --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, David Graham wrote: > > Me too! > Maybe the Celestron Regals will be included in the next (?) objective > comparison at Sapsucker Woods Lab and published in "Living Bird" !? I wonder > if they have to be encouraged to send a sample of their wares to be entered > in the comparison. > Anyone know how that works? > > Dave in East River, SD > > On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 12:27 PM, Rick Phillips wrote: > > > > > > > You are right. I checked a couple of days ago and only looked at the 80 > > F-ED which today is still saying "new item, not yet in stock"...but > > apparently they do have the 100 F-ED. Still would like to see a review by > > someone who has actually used one. > > > > Rick > > > > On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 1:22 PM, David Graham wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> Looks like Adorama has the Celestron Regal 100 F-ED in stock ($699.95) > >> and is shipping free! > >> http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?addtocart=CNR100&src=details > >> > >> Dave in East River, SD > >> > >> On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 11:52 AM, Rick Phillips wrote: > >> > >>> > >>> > >>> I was curious about this as well. Every place I've looked online lists > >>> these scopes as "not yet in stock" so I'm not sure when we might get any > >>> additional information. > >>> > >>> Rick > >>> > >>> > >>> On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 10:10 AM, rmelbourne66 wrote: > >>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Still looking forward to evaluation of Celestron Regal F-ED Spotting > >>>> scope. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, > >>>> Steve Sosensky wrote: > >>>> > > >>>> > Our Celestron rep is bringing one by on March 3rd. I'll post after I > >>>> > get a chance to play with it. > >>>> > > >>>> > At 05:47 PM 2009-02-02, Rick Phillips wrote: > >>>> > >Anyone had any experiences or heard any comments regarding the new > >>>> > >Celestron Regal series of spotting scopes which allow the use of any > >>>> > >standard 1.25" astronomical eyepieces? > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> > Good Viewing, > >>>> > Steve Sosensky > >>>> > VP of Operations > >>>> > > >>>> > www.Optics4Birding.com > >>>> > opening soon at > >>>> > 19 Hammond Suite 506 > >>>> > Irvine CA 92618 > >>>> > 877.OP4.BIRD (877.674.2473) Toll Free > >>>> > 949.360.OPTX (949.360.6789) Local > >>>> > 818.522.5261 Cell > >>>> > > >>>> > >>>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> "When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the > >> rest of the world." > >> John Muir > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > -- > "When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest > of the world." > John Muir > Subject: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: "wturber" <jay AT studio522.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:31:55 -0000 "Why is it that, although zooming the eyepiece on a fixed focal length lens such as the 20mm will make the vignette disappear, with a zoom lens on a camera such as Canon A590 or Nikon P6000 zooming the eyepiece makes it worse." The answer can't be known for sure without knowing more about the particular zoom lens and the focal length where you are experiencing this. But it is most likely that the decrease in eye relief that typically comes with more magnification from the eyepiece has put the exit pupil of the eyepiece too far forward of the entrance pupil of the camera lens. The entrance pupil of the 20mm f/1.7 lens is probably further forward than the entrance pupil on the compact camera's zoom lens which means that it doesn't suffer either at all or as much when the exit pupil of the eyepiece moves. The simpler and probably more symmetrical lens formula of the 20mm "pancake" lens probably makes the more forward entrance pupil possible. It is those same attributes that make it possible for the 20mm lens to be so thin. Just look into the front of the lens of each camera and take a picture. Observe the iris stop down when you do that. You'll probably see that the iris appears to be more forward on the 20mm lens. Now zoom the lens for the compact camera and notice how the aperture moves. On many cameras it will seem to drop back very deep sometimes seeming to be located behind the back of the camera. The apparent location of the iris is the location of the entrance pupil. Ideally, you want the exit pupil of the eyepiece to reach the same location as the entrance pupil of the lens. Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Subject: Re: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 From: Roger Isaacs <Roger.Isaacs AT gmail.com> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 22:20:38 -0600 Hi Jay, Yes the DoF Preview is useful. The 20X-60X with cropping at the sensor (aka "extended optical zoom") when at low magnification seems like my best option for now. Will the Panasonic 45mm F2.8 perform any better with these eye pieces? I see that the "diagonal angle of view" is 27 degrees versus 57 degrees for the 20mm lense. But I'm not sure if that tells us anything about FOV and vignetting. http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/panasonic_45_2p8_o20/ Thanks for the pointers, Roger On Thu, Oct 22, 2009 at 7:05 PM, wturber wrote: > > > > > But the worst is that it apparently vignettes on the aperture: > > In Aperture priority at F 1.7 a photo shows just the vignetting above. > But > > as the F stop increases the vignetting increases severely in the photos. > > This eye piece - lense combination seems unusable. > > Aperture Priority means that the user sets the aperture and the camera sets > the shutter speed. So there's no reason that the lens aperture should change > in that mode. You should be able to set the camera to f/1.7 and shoot away. > > However, if for some reason you wan't to use the lens at smaller apertures, > you can probably find the ideal eyepiece to lens distance by using the > camera's DoF preview mode. While in aperture priority or manual mode, set > the aperture to f8 or some smaller aperture where you previously experienced > vignetting. Put the camera in DoF preview mode. Move the eyepiece in and out > until you get a distinct circle. At this distance, you should get minimal > vignetting change as the camera lens is stopped down. But again, why? Set > the lens to f/1.7 and let the camera adjust the shutter speed. > > Since that eyepiece has a 52 degree AFOV, vignetting will never be > eliminated when the full 4/3" sensor is used with a 20mm lens. Some of the > camera crop modes might do that for you though. > > > > I retried this experiment using the 20X-60X eye piece: I didn't realize > > aperture vignetting would only be seen on the photos and not in the view > > finder. I still don't see any aperture vignetting with the 20x-60x > eyepiece. > > The eyepiece to lens spacing is more optimal with that eyepiece then. > > Most modern cameras give viewfinder views while the lens is wide open. > There are good and bad things about this, but mostly good for a camera like > the G1. Use the DoF preview mode if you need to preview the final result at > the taking aperture. > > > Jay Turberville > www.jayandwanda.com > > > Subject: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: "mntncougar" <mntncougar AT gmail.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:57:28 -0000 Jay, thanks so much for your very enlightening post. I understood nothing at all of the physics of digiscoping before, at least I feel I have a little understanding now. There is one point I still don't understand, although I suspect the answer is somewhere in your vignetting discussion. Why is it that, although zooming the eyepiece on a fixed focal length lens such as the 20mm will make the vignette disappear, with a zoom lens on a camera such as Canon A590 or Nikon P6000 zooming the eyepiece makes it worse. I thought the idea that zooming the eyepiece to relieve vignetting was counter-intuitive, based on my experience with 4x zoom cameras, and judging by the posts, so did several other people. Regards, Don Morgan Coventry, Ct --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, "wturber" wrote: > > > Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while digiscoping. > > A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on a 35mm camera. > > Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years ago. > > Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your attachment method will dictate how practical that is. > > Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. > > http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html > http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html > (I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) > > Jay Turberville > www.jayandwanda.com > Subject: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 From: "wturber" <jay AT studio522.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:05:44 -0000 > But the worst is that it apparently vignettes on the aperture: > In Aperture priority at F 1.7 a photo shows just the vignetting above. But > as the F stop increases the vignetting increases severely in the photos. > This eye piece - lense combination seems unusable. Aperture Priority means that the user sets the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed. So there's no reason that the lens aperture should change in that mode. You should be able to set the camera to f/1.7 and shoot away. However, if for some reason you wan't to use the lens at smaller apertures, you can probably find the ideal eyepiece to lens distance by using the camera's DoF preview mode. While in aperture priority or manual mode, set the aperture to f8 or some smaller aperture where you previously experienced vignetting. Put the camera in DoF preview mode. Move the eyepiece in and out until you get a distinct circle. At this distance, you should get minimal vignetting change as the camera lens is stopped down. But again, why? Set the lens to f/1.7 and let the camera adjust the shutter speed. Since that eyepiece has a 52 degree AFOV, vignetting will never be eliminated when the full 4/3" sensor is used with a 20mm lens. Some of the camera crop modes might do that for you though. > I retried this experiment using the 20X-60X eye piece: I didn't realize > aperture vignetting would only be seen on the photos and not in the view > finder. I still don't see any aperture vignetting with the 20x-60x eyepiece. The eyepiece to lens spacing is more optimal with that eyepiece then. Most modern cameras give viewfinder views while the lens is wide open. There are good and bad things about this, but mostly good for a camera like the G1. Use the DoF preview mode if you need to preview the final result at the taking aperture. Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Subject: Re: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 From: Roger Isaacs <Roger.Isaacs AT gmail.com> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:47:00 -0600 I tried the Kowa 25x LER eye piece TE-20H with the panasonic 20mm F 1.7 lense. I had high hopes for success, but sorry to say that the results are disappointing. There is significant vignetting with a fuzzy ring when the adapter is fully down. On pulling the adapter out a bit and thereby increasing the distance between the lense and the eye piece, the vignetting decreases and the ring becomes solid rather than fuzzy. But the worst is that it apparently vignettes on the aperture: In Aperture priority at F 1.7 a photo shows just the vignetting above. But as the F stop increases the vignetting increases severely in the photos. This eye piece - lense combination seems unusable. I retried this experiment using the 20X-60X eye piece: I didn't realize aperture vignetting would only be seen on the photos and not in the view finder. I still don't see any aperture vignetting with the 20x-60x eyepiece. thanks, Roger On Thu, Oct 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM, wturber wrote: > > > > has anyone managed to try the 20mm lens out on a Swaro 25-50x zoom? I > > wonder if the extra eyerelief and FOV makes any difference... > > I don't have it and haven't tried it, but both features should make a > noticable differenc. I've seen it stated that the 25-50 has an AFOV of 60-70 > degrees over the zoom range. So with a 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor, you > should have no vignetting if the eye relief is adequate and you have the > camera coupled to the eyepiece near optimally. > > Jay Turberville > www.jayandwanda.com > > > Subject: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 From: "wturber" <jay AT studio522.com> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:45:54 -0000 > has anyone managed to try the 20mm lens out on a Swaro 25-50x zoom? I > wonder if the extra eyerelief and FOV makes any difference... I don't have it and haven't tried it, but both features should make a noticable differenc. I've seen it stated that the 25-50 has an AFOV of 60-70 degrees over the zoom range. So with a 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor, you should have no vignetting if the eye relief is adequate and you have the camera coupled to the eyepiece near optimally. Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Subject: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 From: "wturber" <jay AT studio522.com> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:41:35 -0000 Just to wade in a bit with some "back to basics" on vignetting while digiscoping. A 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor give a FOV of around 56 degrees. So if your eyepiece does not have an AFOV of at least 56 degrees, you will get vignetting. There's no way around it. Keep in mind that a 20mm lens on a 4/3" sensor is a slightly wide lens - like a 40mm lens on a 35mm camera. Most zoom eyepieces have a lower AFOV at the lower magnification levels and a greater AFOV at the higher ones. A reduced AFOV at lower magnifications is one of the things you typically must accept when you choose a zoom. You can easily see this as the eyepiece is zoomed. So it makes sense that these eyepieces are vignetting at the lower magnification levels but improving as the eyepiece is zoomed. That said, I think some of the modern zoom eyepieces (like the SW 25-50)are better than what was typically available five years ago. Of course, as a zoom eyepiece increases in magnification, it typically also delivers a shorter eye relief. So you may find that you can reduce vignetting at higher eyepiece magnifications by further by altering the eyepiece to camera lens distance. Your attachment method will dictate how practical that is. Typically, fixed magnification eyepieces offer the largest AFOVs. So these would probably perform pretty well on the 20mm lens. The problem, of course, is that you lose the ability to zoom. http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/vignette/vignetting.html http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html (I guess I should updated the calculator to include the new micro four-thirds cameras. Maybe I'll do that this weekend.) Jay Turberville www.jayandwanda.com Subject: Re: panasonic 20mm F/1.7 From: Dale Forbes <capepolly AT gmail.com> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:08:29 +0200 has anyone managed to try the 20mm lens out on a Swaro 25-50x zoom? I wonder if the extra eyerelief and FOV makes any difference... happy digiscoping, dale http://alpinebirds.blogspot.com Subject: Example with setting: EX. OPT. Zoom From: "A.J. Morales" <ajmorales AT rocketmail.com> Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:20:47 -0700 (PDT) I was interested in the posts regarding the setting: EX. OPT. ZOOM! Here in Minnesota, the season is changing toward the winter season. Lower light conditions in the late afternoon offer slow shutter speed conditions. Anyway, here's what I have to offer as an example on the subject. ...see attached composite image... AJ Subject: Re: Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 on Nikon EDG zoom From: "bill.schmoker" <bill.schmoker AT yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 03:33:01 -0000 Hi Roy- I currently don't have a fixed eyepiece for the EDG, but hope to try it on one ASAP. On the 65mm model, the included zoom goes 16-48X. On the 85mm model it is a 20-60X. Enjoy- Bill Schmoker, Longmont, Colorado --- In digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com, Roy Halpin wrote: > > Bill this is so good to know. Have you tried it with a fixed eyepiece? I assume the Nikon EDG is 20--60X > > Roy > > > > > ________________________________ > From: bill.schmoker > To: digiscopingbirds AT yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wed, October 21, 2009 10:38:56 AM > Subject: [digiscopingbirds] Panasonic DMC-G1 with 20mm f/1.7 on Nikon EDG zoom > > To follow up on this thread, I got the 20mm f/1.7 for the G1 yesterday. On my 65mm Nikon EDG zoom eyepiece I also have vignetting on the low end which goes away about halfway through the zoom range. The entire top half or so of the eyepiece zoom gives no vignetting. > > There is also some in/out movement of the end of the lens when it focuses- just a few millimeters but there is potential for bumping the eyepiece if the lens is up against it. > > Enjoy- Bill Schmoker, in snowy Longmont, Colorado > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Please post bird photos to our other group birds-pix AT ...! Groups Links >